Past
Make no mistake-
when someone mentions Little Italy many of our minds wander to
Manhattan's Little Italy. The reason for this is due to the way it
has been glorified in books, television and movies. It has always
been portrayed as an area that is a bastion of Italian culture and
cuisine- an old school holdout in a rapidly gentrifying New York
City.
Indeed,
Manhattan's Little Italy was THE place to be for Italian immigrants
to New York at the turn of the 20th century. The reasons
why Italians settled in the area is simply because it was convenient.
The area was at the southern tip of Manhattan Island- which was one
of the most undesirable areas of Manhattan to live (so- cheap housing
was readily available.) Moreover, the location was also where a
majority of Italians first set foot in America after being processed
at Ellis Island.
| Mulberry Street- Early 1900s |
The area saw a
huge influx of Italian immigrant between 1880 and 1930- and as a
result, Italian shops, service centers and restaurants opened up to
cater to their needs. Religious feasts and celebrations were also
incorporated into the area. In fact, Manhattan's Little Italy is
still home to the San Gennaro Feast- which is celebrated every
September.
The area began to
lose it's Italian population during the middle 1940s. The reasons why
are manifold, but revolve around these main issues: 1) Italians
rapidly moved up the economic ladder; 2) Italians were prevented from
coming to America in large numbers and 3) World War II allowed for
Italians to be accepted by mainstream America- which allowed them to
move out of the “ghettos.” This meant that middle class Italians
were now moving to more spacious areas in Brooklyn and Queens.
Nevertheless,
Manhattan's Little Italy remained an Italian neighborhood for much of
the remainder of the 20th century. This is evidenced by
its still present Italian shops, restaurants and feasts.
Present:
| VERY Little Italy |
The area is also
shrinking. It is being flanked by an ever growing Chinatown and an up
and coming area referred to as NoLita (North of Little Italy). These
two factors have combined to change the area as well as reduce it
size and scale. Furthermore, residents of the NoLita area have
attempted to shrink the size and scope of the yearly San Gennaro
feast- as they claim it attracts traffic, violence and dirt.
What to See & Eat:
I know you're asking “Where are the real restaurants in this
review?” The fact is- there aren't any. This is an
honest-to-goodness write up of the Little Italy- and quite frankly,
it has some of the worst Italian food we've ever tasted. So, we
suggest you go to Lombardi's and eat dessert at Ferrara's- skip the
“fancy” (and terrible) restaurants.
Ferrara's Bakery:
Perfect place for a cannolo and espresso. The shop has been there for
well over 100 years, and has serviced the community and now the
tourists. While the menu is packed with tasty items, be prepared to
pay a steep price. A recent trip for two cost approximately $30 for 2
Espressos, 2 Cannoli and a few cookies.
Lombardi's-
Lombardi's has the distinction of being the first pizzeria in
America. More importantly, it also has the distinction of being the
first pizzeria to offer “pizza to go.”
The pizza is very
good- and every New Yorker has gotten into the obligatory “Lombardi's
vs. Grimaldi's debate” over which shop has the best. But, like
anything else in Little Italy be prepared to 1) pay and 2) wait. TIP:
Whichever pie you choose, you have to try their Italian soda. Trust
us. :)
The Italian
American Museum- If you have the chance to go to Little Italy- aim
for the morning/afternoon and make your way to this museum. Housed in
the old Banca Stabile building, the museum aims to preserve Italian
culture and heritage. The founder, Dr. Joseph Scelsa is an affable
man who can explain every facet of early and contemporary Italian
life to his visitors.
San Gennaro Feast-
Generally held in the middle of September, the feast is a long
running tradition in the neighborhood. San Gennaro is the patron
saint of Naples- and at the very beginning of the feast, one can
witness the statute of San Gennaro being paraded through the streets.
TIP: If you do go
to the feast, 1) take public transportation and 2) the restaurants in
the area set up booths for outdoor dining. You can literally dine and
sit in the middle of the feast- not a bad way to spend the night!
.
More photos from Little Italy, New York:
Check Out More Little Italies:
Boston's North End
Check Out More Little Italies:
Boston's North End
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